Forget Your “Skin Type”, Learn Your Skin Condition
(Originally published in 2016, updated February 2025)
When this post was first written in 2016 (when I was in esthetician school), the skincare industry commonly categorized skin into distinct "types." While this framework provided a starting point for understanding skin care, my knowledge as an esthetician has evolved significantly. Today, I and many others recognize that skin is far more dynamic and complex than these rigid categories suggest. This update reflects the current understanding of skin health and care.
One thing remains the same, however, and that is our skin is constantly evolving as we age. Everyone’s skin is unique so this post serves as a general indicator of the most common skin conditions you might encounter along your skin care journey. If you want a level of certainty with your skin instead of guesstimations, book an appointment with us in Oakland! We use a state-of-the-art dermatological diagnostic tool to provide our clients with expert skin health information.
Understanding Skin Types vs. Skin Conditions: What's the Difference?
First things first: let's talk about why we're moving away from rigid skin types at Glowdega. While terms like "oily skin," "dry skin," and "combination skin" helped us start conversations about skincare, we now know there's so much more to the story. Your skin is constantly changing and adapting, influenced by everything from what you eat to how much sleep you get (and yes, even that stressful project at work!). What we once considered fixed "types" are often temporary conditions that can change throughout our lives.
The idea that someone has "oily skin" or "dry skin" as a fixed trait doesn't match reality. Instead of asking "what's my skin type?" try asking these questions about your skin's current state:
Does your skin feel tight or dehydrated?
Do you notice excess oil production in certain areas?
Are there any signs of sensitivity or irritation?
How does your skin react to different environments?
Common Skin Conditions You Might Experience
Many characteristics we previously attributed to skin types are actually conditions that can be addressed and managed. Here are some common skin conditions that deserve attention:
“Dry Skin” is actually just Dehydration
When your skin feels tight, flaky, or rough, you're experiencing dehydration or dryness—a temporary condition that can be addressed. This might happen due to weather changes, over-cleansing, over-exfoliation, or severe internal dehydration. Dehydration in your skin means that it lacks the natural oils that protect us from everyday environmental damage and aging. Dry skin also leads to you being more sensitive as the acid mantle and barrier function are not healthy due to a lack of lipids.
And before you think that drinking more water is the answer for your dehydration: it’s not. If you are experiencing dehydration in your skin, you want to incorporate more humectant-rich hydrating products (like Barrier Brew) and nourishing emollients such as rich, thick moisturizers.
“Oily Skin” Isn’t Always What You Think
There are generally two reasons behind your skin feeling too oily: dehydration and excess oil production. I know what you’re thinking. “But you just said that dehydration was dry skin. How can dry skin be oily!?” Well, it’s science.
Our skin is incredibly smart and works as intended to keep you protected at all times. The skin needs a certain amount of natural lipids to help aid in protection against pathogens and the environment. When we don’t have that, due to dehydration, the skin sends signals to start producing oil as a natural defense mechanism. It is important to note that this method of oil production doesn’t necessarily equate to more oil, it’s just replenishing. Your genetics don’t all of a sudden start going into overdrive with oil production. But it can feel like an overproduction of oil because the dehydration has impaired the barrier which causes the oil to sit on the skin and appear more prominently. Anyone can experience oily skin due to dehydration.
And then there is actual excess oil production. Hormonal changes, stress, and humidity or heat can exacerbate your skin’s oil levels. There’s also chronic skin conditions such as acne vulgaris and seborrheic dermatitis which can lead to excessively oily skin as well. Oily skin as a result of excess oil production is typically determined by larger follicle size, thicker or sallow skin appearance, and blemishes/comedones.
“Combination Skin” is a reflection of the Human Experience
It is actually more rare to find someone with just one skin condition. Most faces experience a few skin conditions simultaneously. Those different zones on your face—like an oily T-zone with drier cheeks? This isn't a "combination skin type" but rather your skin responding differently to various factors in different areas. These patterns can shift with seasons, stress levels, or skincare routine changes.
This is why being intentional with your skin care products is important. Knowing what is best for your entire face vs. when to spot treat can help mitigate a lot of issues that arise when people take the “one product for all” approach to their skin.
A Note About Skin Sensitivity
Sensitive skin is a skin condition that can appear alongside any other skin condition. In some cases, the sensitivity may be caused by other skin conditions. A few conditions that may result in sensitive skin include: rosacea, eczema, and telangiectasia (couperose skin). You can also develop a sensitivity as a result of product misuse or overuse. Burning, stinging, or tingles after applying your skin care routine might be a sign of sensitivity. You might also notice redness.
Sometimes it is hard to gauge skin sensitivity because it will feel (and look) a lot like an allergy. It is best to consult with a dermatologist if you suspect your skin may sensitive.
Understanding Your Skin’s Current State
The key to understanding your skin isn't about finding its "type"—it's about learning to observe how your skin behaves day by day. Start by checking in with your skin daily: How does it feel? What changes are you noticing? Is it reacting to something in your environment? These simple observations will tell you more about your skin's needs than any fixed category ever could.
Your skin is constantly responding to the world around it and your internal state. Think of all the factors that can affect your skin in a single day: the weather, pollution, your stress levels, how much water you're drinking, whether you got enough sleep, the products you're using, and even where you are in your hormonal cycle. Each of these elements can change how your skin behaves and what it needs.
This is why your skincare approach needs to be flexible. Instead of following a rigid routine, learn to adapt your skincare based on what your skin is telling you. Some days it might need more hydration, other days it might need gentle exfoliation, and sometimes it might need you to simply leave it alone. The key is paying attention and being willing to adjust your routine as your skin's needs change.
Professional Guidance
While this guide helps you understand your skin's changing nature, working with us at Glowdega can provide valuable insights into your specific concerns and conditions. We can help you develop strategies for addressing your skin's current needs and adapting as those needs change.
Remember: Your skin is constantly evolving, and that's completely normal! Instead of trying to fit your skin into a fixed category, embrace its dynamic nature and learn to adapt your care accordingly.
